How to Cook a Wolf

Repeatable: Yes. Visits: 2

If you live on Queen Anne, then elbowing the rest of the pack for a parking spot and a hard-to-find seat inside this pocket-sized restaurant just might be worth all the hassle. But folks in Laurelhurst or Denny Blaine should consider options closer to home. The brief, Italian-inspired menu lists a dozen or so items that are meant to be shared: some pasta dishes, appetizers, a salad or two, some meat, fish or fowl, all constantly updated (only the house anchovy spaghetti seems a fixture).  Of Ethan Stowell’s three overly hyped restaurants (Union and Tavolata are the older siblings), Wolf is most likely to endure, even after the novelty wears off. Our second visit in November ’08 was satisfying, if not spectacular. (Disclosure: We were there to use up a gift certificate).
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