Repeatable: Yes. Visits: 2+
Do “normal” people eat at Rover’s? Especially in an economic downturn such as this one? Well, yes and no. If you want to splurge on this perennially lovely place, consider the Friday 3-course lunch, which allows regular budgets to sample the gastronomical pleasures here at a fraction of the cost of dinner. Admittedly the cost is still high: about $140 (incl. tax and tip) for two–but the food will be delicious, the service just so, and the spiritual escape worth absolutely every penny.
The starter, baked butter clam with bacon and harissa consomme, drew raves from my companion. I made a substitution: Rover’s iconic scrambled egg with lime creme frache and sturgeon caviar, which was as delicately delicious as I remembered. Fluffy and quietly intense with flavor, these are the scrambled eggs served in Heaven, for sure. The roast sturgeon came with tiny cubes of celery root and beets, dressed with a watercolor wash of vermouth sauce. Pale and proper–and a tad dull after a bite of the duck, which was bright and bold with cranberry beans, squash, and oregano demi-glace.
Dessert was simply gorgeous: Two silky pots de creme topped with passionfruit gelee and a quivering dollop of coconut foam. The three little buttery cookies on the side were so good, I ate one and saved two for later. The tropical flavors ended this fine meal on a sunny flourish–and made me certain I needed to return as soon as possible to get the full dinnertime treatment.